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There is no such thing as 'overwound' - the most common problem is that the watch oil has turned into a glue over the years and it just needs a good clean. If you attempt this youself it is likely that you will break a balance pivot or lever pivot. Even if you break a screw it will be extrememly difficult to find a replacement. The notion of a watch not running because it is 'overwound,' is urban myth.if it is at full power and not running the issue is NOT the power supplied by the fully powered barrel. My Elgin pocket watches have barrel arbors with a cam that disengages the end of the spring if you wind it more than necessary, then catches the spring eyelet.
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I'm asking this with regards to my SARB watches, but it is a general question as well.I'm just wondering if you can overwind these watches. Most of these watches don't have power meters, so its kind of a guessing game as to how much winding is enough.Is there a disengage mechanism once the spring is fully wound?
My gut says yes, becuase even if I stop winding, the rotor will continue to do its job.Even if overwinding doesn't harm Seikos, can anyone speak for cheaper movements if they also have a similar saftey mechanism?. I’m not a watchmaker, just someone who enjoys working on his own watches as a hobby.
My limited understanding is that automatic mechanical movements are equipped with a “clutch” like mechanism to prevent overwinding. This can come in different forms, but one of the simplest means is that the mainspring tension exceeds the friction on the wall of the mainspring hub, allowing the spring to slip.Prevailing notions for mechanical hand winding movements is that there is no means of overwinding, short of human error, when someone continues to force the mainspring past its maximum. There was no “clutch” mechanism for vintage seikos of the 1950-60. My gs/ks high beats, sky liners and lord marvels all have a maximum winding point that is quite obvious. Naturally humans make mistakes, case and point the seiko date change mechanism in the 56xx that will break if you change between 9pm and 3am.When you overwinding, you don’t mess up the mainspring itself per se. You mess up all the gears involved in winding, which are also involved in unwinding to put the power down.
A single stripped gear and you’re toast.I’m not as familiar with Unitas, as I don’t have the nerve to work on my Swiss watches and have, automatic or otherwise, but I’d suspect any hand winding mechanical could be overwound if it is a vintage piece that does not have a built in safeguard. That’s a lot of handwaving and no details, which is what people always do on this topic. I disassembled and serviced my fair number of movements from different brands as well.
Seiko, Unitas, all movement work basically the same in this aspect. The click is the safeguard you are talking about for hand wound movements, and Seikos of the 1950-60 had it, and automatic ones had slipping mainsprings.I challenge you to record a video where you overwind any movement by using only your fingers. If you succeed I’ll refund you twice the value of the broken watch.